Let’s face it, if you’re looking for the city with the most Caravaggio paintings per square metre, you’re going to have to head to Rome. Start off at the Contarelli Chapel, which is aptly only a few minutes’ walk from Piazza Navona, known as the artists’ square. This small chapel famously boasts an enviable series of three Caravaggio paintings, all of which meditate upon the story of St. Matthew and caused a stir in Rome when they were first displayed for their dramatic yet realistic style. Fun fact! The third and final painting that Caravaggio completed for the chapel, The Inspiration of St. Matthew, in fact, had to be repainted, as his first submission was frowned upon for the suggestive way in which the angel cuddled up to the holy saint. You will, therefore, note that in the version you see today, the angel maintains a safe distance from Mr. Matthew!
Caravaggio wasn’t a stranger to causing a scandal, and if you want to find out more about how he shocked the Roman art world, then make your way to the Cerasi Chapel in Santa Maria del Popolo. Here reside two of the artist’s paintings entitled The Conversion of St Paul and The Crucifixion of St Peter, the former of which upset the artist’s patrons due to the canvas being mostly filled with a depiction of a horse’s backside. Apparently at the time animal buttocks were not seen as the most appropriate decoration for a place of worship…
Other key locations to visit include the Cavaletti Chapel and the Palazzo Barberini, but most of all, true Caravaggio lovers should ensure they make their way to Galleria Borghese, a powerhouse institution that is a staple of the Roman art scene. Here you will have the opportunity to view some of the Renaissance master’s most prominent paintings, including his late work David with the Head of Goliath, which he sent to Rome whilst he was exiled in Malta as a plea to allow him to return to the Eternal City.
Leave a Reply