Paestum: Greek Temples, Museum and Coastal Plain

In this article
Northern Cilento · Archaeology, coast and food

Begin with the temples

At Paestum, the temples stand high above the lower remains of streets and buildings. Beyond them lie fields, pine woodland and the sea. That relationship between ancient city and coastal plain is the starting point for a visit.

Give the archaeological park and museum the main part of your day. There is plenty to explore between the temples, and the museum helps explain the city’s history before you continue to the beach or a local dairy.

The so-called Temple of Neptune and the older Temple of Hera, known as the Basilica.
The so-called Temple of Neptune and the older Temple of Hera, known as the Basilica.

The site preserves the changing city of Greek Poseidonia and later Lucanian and Roman Paestum. Its three large Doric temples belong to separate sacred areas. The southern sanctuary contains the older Temple of Hera, commonly called the Basilica, and the so-called Temple of Neptune. Athena’s temple stands in the northern sanctuary.

The names need a little care. “Basilica” came from an early misidentification of a temple as a civic building. “Neptune” is also a conventional name: the deity to whom that temple was dedicated is uncertain. The archaeological park’s account explains the evidence.

Doric columns seen between cypress trees.
Doric columns seen between cypress trees.
Visitors among the columns of the so-called Temple of Neptune.
Visitors among the columns of the so-called Temple of Neptune.

Look at the spaces between the monuments as well. The low walls and paths help turn three impressive buildings into the remains of a city. From ground level, the contrast between these modest traces and the standing colonnades is particularly strong.

Paths among the lower remains of the ancient city.
Paths among the lower remains of the ancient city.

The museum and the Tomb of the Diver

The museum brings together finds from the ancient city and its surrounding burial grounds. Its best-known work is the Tomb of the Diver, whose painted cover slab shows a figure diving towards water.

The painted cover slab of the Tomb of the Diver in Paestum’s museum.
The painted cover slab of the Tomb of the Diver in Paestum’s museum.

Allow time for the broader collection as well as the Tomb of the Diver. Objects and painted tombs help connect the buildings outside with the people who lived here.

Check the official Paestum and Velia website for current entry arrangements, open areas and museum hours. Outdoor and museum last-admission times can differ. Wear comfortable shoes and plan for exposed ground in warm weather.

The plain, pine belt and beach

Paestum’s coast is flatter than the steeper shores farther south. A long sandy beach runs beside pine woodland, with settlement and farmland behind. Allow for the journey between the archaeological site and the shore.

A belt of pine woodland runs parallel to the beach.
A belt of pine woodland runs parallel to the beach.
Pine woodland between the Paestum plain and the sea.
Pine woodland between the Paestum plain and the sea.
The long sandy coast of Paestum.
The long sandy coast of Paestum.

Beach clubs with umbrellas, cabins and cabanas share this coastline with open stretches of sand. Check access and seasonal services at the beach you plan to visit.

An organised beach area on the Paestum coast.
An organised beach area on the Paestum coast.
Striped beach huts behind the shore.
Striped beach huts behind the shore.
Cabanas at Beach Club 93.
Cabanas at Beach Club 93.

Capaccio’s historic centre occupies higher ground inland. Its tiled roofs and clustered streets offer another view of the area’s settlement pattern. It is a separate stop requiring onward travel from the archaeological site.

Capaccio’s historic centre on the higher ground above the plain.
Capaccio’s historic centre on the higher ground above the plain.

Buffalo mozzarella and the working countryside

The surrounding plain supports buffalo farming and mozzarella production. Tenuta Vannulo is one place where the agricultural and food sides of a visit can be considered together: the estate lists a dairy, tasting space, yoghurteria and museum of rural life.

Buffalo mozzarella, tomatoes and bread at Tenuta Vannulo.
Buffalo mozzarella, tomatoes and bread at Tenuta Vannulo.
Buffalo beside grooming brushes at Tenuta Vannulo.
Buffalo beside grooming brushes at Tenuta Vannulo.
Agricultural tools displayed in Vannulo’s rural-life museum.
Agricultural tools displayed in Vannulo’s rural-life museum.

For a tour or tasting, contact Tenuta Vannulo in advance and confirm what is included. The farm also recommends reserving mozzarella.

Wine farther along the coast

Azienda Agricola San Giovanni lies farther south at Punta Tresino, in Castellabate. Its vineyards face the sea, and a visit can be planned as part of an outing along this stretch of coast. See the estate’s website for details.

Vines looking towards the sea at Azienda Agricola San Giovanni, Punta Tresino.
Vines looking towards the sea at Azienda Agricola San Giovanni, Punta Tresino.
The outdoor tasting area at Azienda Agricola San Giovanni.
The outdoor tasting area at Azienda Agricola San Giovanni.

Confirm the access route and tasting arrangements with the estate before travelling.

Paestum’s annual balloon festival

Paestum hosts the annual Festival Internazionale delle Mongolfiere. The images here show a past edition, with preparations on the ground and a balloon above the archaeological site.

Preparations at a past edition of Paestum’s balloon festival.
Preparations at a past edition of Paestum’s balloon festival.
A balloon above Paestum during a past edition of the festival.
A balloon above Paestum during a past edition of the festival.

For forthcoming dates and programme announcements, see the festival organiser’s Facebook page. Confirm flight arrangements and weather conditions with the organiser before planning around the event.

Keep the day focused on Paestum

Start with archaeology and the museum, then choose a dairy visit, Capaccio or time at the beach. Combining all three can leave too little time for the ancient city.

Paestum has a railway station, but there is no railway along the Amalfi Coast. A journey towards Amalfi or Positano needs a separate onward connection, commonly through Salerno, with seasonal services and return timings checked. Paestum is best appreciated as a destination in its own right.

For nearby town walks, see our Cilento towns and villages guide. For accommodation and a wider route, use our Cilento holidays page. We can match the base and arrangements to the balance of archaeology, coast and countryside you want.